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Sociologist Ashley Mears takes us behind the brightly lit runways and glossy advertisements of the fashion industry in this insider’s study of the world of modeling. Mears, who worked as a model in New York and London, draws on observations as well as extensive interviews with male and female models, agents, clients, photographers, stylists, and others, to explore the economics and politics—and the arbitrariness— behind the business of glamour. Exploring a largely hidden arena of cultural production, she shows how the right “look” is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. She examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them. An original contribution to the sociology of work in the new cultural economy, Pricing Beauty offers rich, accessible analysis of the invisible ways in which gender, race, and class shape worth in the marketplace.
- Sales Rank: #401070 in Books
- Brand: Brand: University of California Press
- Published on: 2011-09-14
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x .80" w x 6.00" l, .95 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 328 pages
- Used Book in Good Condition
Review
"Mears gives voice to a group of women who are paid to be seen and not heard." (Slate 2011-09-07)
“Mears has produced a fascinating study.” (Boston Globe/The Find 2011-09-11)
“Mears acknowledges that walking the runway can be a thrill unlike any other [but also] notes some of the industry’s exploitative aspects.” (Stylelist 2011-09-22)
“A nuanced, and deliciously complicated depiction of an industry.” (Tottenville Review 2012-01-19)
“This book is sociology at its finest. Mears’s rarified status as a model-researcher provides rich insight into the specific nuances of fashion.” (American Journal Of Sociology/AJS 2012-07-20)
“Mears's book represents an original, highly readable contribution to the field.” (Choice 2012-02-01)
From the Inside Flap
"Ashley Mears is a talented ethnographer, a first-rate sociological thinker and an artful writer. Pricing Beauty offers a dazzling, engaging, utterly original contribution to public and scholarly understanding of embodiment, gender, race, culture, and markets. A riveting work of priceless beauty!” —Judith Stacey, author Unhitched: Love, Marriage and Family Values from West Hollywood to Western China
“Mears’s winning formula: combine deep inside knowledge of the fashion business, based on intensive observation, with useful sociological ideas, and present the result in readable, witty and incisive prose. I learned a lot and you will too.” —Howard S. Becker, author of Art Worlds
“Ashley Mears shows us beauty is not in the eyes of the beholder but in the complex ensemble of organizational imperatives, social networking, and critical timing. She reverses stereotypes of gender pay, sexuality, and the making of markets. It is a first-hand analysis that does not let up in its page-turning intelligence and unremitting clarity.” —Harvey Molotch, Professor of Metropolitan Studies, New York University
"Pricing Beauty is a a courageous and provocative book. Mears takes us behind the curtain of high-stakes fashion. Drawing on her own experiences as a model, Mears uncovers the far less glamorous side of the industry, one that few of us will ever see. This is sociology at its finest: thoughtful analysis, great storytelling and an empathetic perspective on the lives of so many who pursue their dreams, only to find a few nightmares along the way. A must read for anyone interested in understanding how celebrity is made." —Sudhir Venkatesh, author of Gang Leader for a Day
"This book is a pleasure to read—an entertaining, well-written and sophisticated analysis. I strongly recommend it to anyone interested in the intersection of aesthetics, gender, and labor.” —Debra Gimlin, author of Body Work
About the Author
Ashley Mears is Assistant Professor of Sociology at Boston University
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Fascinating book about the behind-the-scenes workings of the modeling industry ...
By katarinaism
Fascinating book about the behind-the-scenes workings of the modeling industry. In college, I briefly dabbled in modeling, though more of the 'commercial' and 'promo' type than the high fashion that Mears' work sought to investigate. I found her very candid accounts and quotes from insiders to be unfiltered and honest, though confirming my own observations that as a model, one is really commoditized and reduced to her (or his) parts. In terms of the distinction between 'editorial' and 'commercial' models, I think her explanation and comparisons of the dichotomy between the two worlds was very thorough...the trade-off between prestige and financial security is a common theme, not only in the modeling world, but throughout many other industries as well. When asking various people in the fashion industry about the lack of diversity (both in terms of racial and size), Mears received a myriad of comments echoing that the lack of diversity was caused by inadequate supply of models (per designers and photographers), inadequate demand for certain types of models (from bookers). It is no wonder that diversity is still difficult to come by when viewing images in Vogue, or catwalk stills on a website. However, I do think the situation is changing; Mears' book came just a few years too early to catch the social-media wave which propelled more diverse models such as Ashley Graham and Barbie Ferreira to fame. There is still a long way to go, and Mears' book confronts an uncomfortable topic head-on.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Analysis of the Modeling Industry
By Wendy
A well-thought out and very interesting analysis of the Modeling industry, with applications to Entertainment in general. Provides some glimpses into "behind the scene" but the approach is that of a dissertation. I feel those looking for an intellectual look at how beauty is monetized will be pleased. Those looking for a light "day in life of fashion model" will be disappointed.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A brilliant ethnographic study of the fashion world
By Benjamin Juarez Echenique
Ashley Mears has researched the complex fashion world from the perspective of an insider, the results are brilliant and revealing. Equality is a universal concern, but research has mostly focused on the dispossessed and marginal groups, now we have access to the top of the pyramid in a lucid academically sound analysis. Commodified women, the luxury fashion industry and its complex ecology. Highly recommended.
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